We’re flying! As always, it's exciting, fun, and scary all at the same time.
Crete. April 14, Saturday
Hotel Neptune is located just 40
meters from the sea. It’s small and simple, but the owner is
friendly and helpful. The first night was cold, and we were freezing under the
covers as the hotel doesn’t have any radiators.
"Did you have a pleasant
night?" the owner asked after the first night.
"Well, we actually had trouble
sleeping, because it was so cold in the room," I said.
"Then I'll make sure you get some extra blankets," he replied.
April 19, Thursday
We hitchhiked to Chania where we booked a rental car and had lunch at the harbor. It was nice while the sun was shining, but then Zeus must have gotten into a bad mood, because the clouds piled up and the wind whipped the waves into foam. We put on our sweaters and walked up to Stalōs, a small village on a hill west of the city. There was a tiny church in the middle of the village, and from it you could hear children practicing choir singing. In the street outside, an old woman was setting off Easter firecrackers while old men were having lively conversations at the café. Men dominate the public space, while women stay in the background.
*
On Wednesday morning we drove east on the highway that runs along the north coast of Crete. We quickly reached Rethymnon where we turned south. The road up in the mountains was covered with gravel and stones the size of tennis balls, and if there were no boulders on the roadway, it was full of potholes big enough to swallow a soccer ball.
*
The journey to Agia Galini on the south coast turned out to be a shaky experience along a winding road, but the town itself was cozy. We sat down at a café by the fishing port and enjoyed the view.
April 21, Saturday
She wanted to sleep in, so I had breakfast alone. At nine, two representatives came to pick up the car. I paid and then brought her breakfast which she took in bed. I had bought freshly baked bread and yogurt from a small grocery store nearby, and coffee from the hotel.
*
On Easter Eve, we took it easy,
resting and washing clothes. When the sun came out, we took a walk east and had
a light meal in a taverna. We took a nap at the hotel around nine and then
hitchhiked to Chania to watch the Easter celebrations. There was a service in
the big church, and townspeople were preparing for the Easter parade in the main
square. Penny suggested that we take the opportunity to eat as nothing was
likely to happen until midnight when the priest starts the festivities. We were
tired of Greek food, so we went to Loukoulos, which promised an international
menu. We ordered some kind of schnitzel with spaghetti Bolognese and French
fries as sides.
Towards midnight we were the only
guests there, and it was obvious that the waiters did not want any guests at
all. In the end, they couldn't hold back any longer and ran out into the street
to watch the fireworks that started going off in front of the church.
"Today is a very special day in
Greece," said the only remaining waiter.
We paid and hurried out. After the priest declared that "Jesus is risen," people wished each other Happy Easter, hugs and kisses were exchanged right and left, and the square quickly emptied of people. While waiting for a taxi, we saw a cat get hit by a car. The poor creature was thrown into a violent spin, screaming as it spun around, but no one but us seemed to care. Minutes later it lay like an old rag in the middle of the street.
April 22, Sunday
On Wednesday afternoon we drove east towards Faistos, an ancient Minoan palace located on a hill overlooking the Messara plain. Penny got a handle on the excavations using a guidebook that had detailed maps and descriptions. We worked our way through the 4,000-year-old ruins and tried to imagine what they once had looked like, but it wasn't easy because Phaistos isn't reconstructed like Knossos, and almost all the vases, pots and jewelry have been shipped out to distant museums.
*
We had planned to spend the night in
Pírgos,
which was marked on the map with a large ring but turned out to be a tiny town.
I had to shift into first gear to get up the hill that led to the village
street, which was also full of large potholes. I walked into a restaurant and
asked where I could rent a room for the night. An old lady dressed in black
greeted me with a toothless smile and pointed in the direction we had come
from, and signaling that we should come back to her place for a bite to eat.
We did indeed find an inn in the direction she had pointed, but it only had two
rooms, and both were rented out. By now it was pitch black outside and we
didn't know what to do, so we drove back to the old lady and ordered food in
the hope that she might take pity on us and rent us a room if we ate there. She
was happy to have us back and offered us a choice of two dishes — soup or pork
chops.
The waiter suggested in broken
English that we go back to the nearest town the size of Pírgo,
but we had no desire to renew our acquaintance with the lousy road that had
already tortured us once. We had already written off the other option, to
continue to Skinias, since the road there would be even worse. Then he
suggested that we drive down to Tsoutsouros on the coast. It was a tourist
resort with many hotels, he assured us.
We looked at each other as we sat by
the warming wood stove and had no desire to go out into the cold night again,
but we had no choice. On the way out of town I bought a flashlight, and a bit
of twine to secure the license plate that was about to fall off.
Shortly after we turned south towards the coast, the road disappeared into a large puddle of water. I got out of the car and examined the surroundings. To the left were reeds and to the right was a stream. Chirp, chirp, chirp one could hear from the reeds. I shone the light into the brown puddle that seemed to be one or two decimeters deep. We had just decided to move on when we saw a pair of light cones approaching from the opposite direction. It was a big truck and it drove straight through the puddle without any problems. And so did we.
*
I took over the wheel as we had about
a mile of hairpin turns between us and Tsoutsouros and I had more experience
of mountain roads. It was a crawl without even a little moonlight to guide us.
We slogged our way up curve by curve to get over the ridge that separated us
from the coast. All I could see in the light beam in front of me was the dirt
road, or a piece of rock wall if I came out of an inside curve. Where there was
no gravel or rock, it was pitch black, which was nice in a way as we were
spared from having to stare into the void. From time to time the headlights
caught white shrines erected in memory of those who had perished, and to
protect people like us. At the highest point of the road was a small white
chapel. We thought about asking to spend the night there, but it looked so
desolate that we kept driving.
The fact that we were now starting
the descent gave us some hope, at least until smoke started to come out from
under the hood. The radiator water was boiling since I used engine braking to
avoid wearing down the brake pads. And since we didn't have any extra water for
the radiator, I had to keep up enough speed to drive in second gear. I could
see from Penny's face that she was scared.
We must reasonably have descended
quite a bit, but saw no signs of life, no lights revealing any small village
down there. The road became more winding, and the hairpin turns came more
frequently. When I opened the ventilation window, a cold wind howled. What if
the hotels have not opened for the season, what if the village is black and
deserted when we arrive? Is there even a village down there? Are we on the
right track?
The first sign of life was an
oncoming truck that disappeared as quickly as it appeared. There was a moment when
our headlights caught a few treetops in the valley, but then it went black
again, and the road plunged further down into the unknown.
But Tsoutsouros did exist, and before
we knew it, we heard the roar of the Libyan Sea a few meters away from us on the
left side of the car. It was half past eleven and we could see light from a
couple of small cafes. A young boy who knew a little English helped us find a
hotel where the hostess quickly prepared a room for us. It cost 500 drachmas
(40 kr) and had a wide bed, a sheet and a couple of blankets. It was probably a
room that the family used during the low season, but we were not very picky at
this point. The bathroom looked quite impressive with a bathtub, sink and
bidet, but we soon realized that there was no glass in the glass door, hot
water, toilet paper or soap. The towels did not seem to have been washed since
last season, and the sponge by the sink was probably five years old.
April 23, Monday
Feeling blue. Maybe it's the realization that the trip is almost over. I also have a fever, headache, and a stiff neck. Paradoxically, the sadness came at the same time as the sun broke out and made a pleasant afternoon in Chania. We sat down at a café near the tourist office which is housed in the old mosque of the Janissaries. I bought a large ice cream to go with my coffee. For a moment, just as the sun was sinking behind the west side of Chania's Venetian harbor, a small lone cloud, half hidden by the row of houses, acquired beautifully golden edges. I picked up the camera, but the cloud had already lost its luster when I took the shot.
*
We hitchhiked to Chania to visit the archaeological museum located in an old Venetian church. The oldest finds date back to 3400 BC and consist of fine bowls, pots, and cups. The objects are all very light in shape. It is fascinating to look at 5,000-year-old objects and see how little has changed over time. The objects are refined, but only marginally. For us, living in the midst of a constant revolution, this continuity of form is almost unimaginable. Around 1000 BC, the beautiful and imaginative animal and human motifs disappear, and are replaced by dull geometric shapes. Abstraction drives away the living.
April 24, Tuesday
We spent most of Easter Sunday
sitting in bed. The weather was bad, and we were catching up. We were both
tired and didn't think of making love, but we started anyway just after
midnight. I don't remember much more than caressing and massaging her for a long
time.
"It was the best time yet,"
she said afterwards while hugging me.
"It's good to see you so
relaxed," I said.
"I trust you," she said.
And me, I'm resting, I'm waiting, I'm
thinking.
What an idiot I am.
April 26, Thursday
We are sitting in a café
in Rethymnon waiting for the eleven o’clock bus to Heraklion. The sun is
shining. There is a light breeze. She is reading H.G. Wunderlich's The
Secrets of Crete. We took it
easy on Tuesday since I had caught strep throat. The weather was better, but no
swimming weather. We hitchhiked into Chania and stopped at a pharmacy. The
pharmacist was friendly and knowledgeable and spoke good English. When he heard
that I had pain in the back of my throat, he gave me antibiotics.
Ahead of us, Knossos is hidden behind lush green trees. I sip my ouzo and wonder if this is the right place to propose, but then began to doubt the idea. After all, Knossos symbolizes not only Europe’s roots, but also a tyrannical empire. But who knows, maybe it's about the progress of human culture, for better or worse. Then it might not be such a bad place after all.
April 27, Friday
Penny started taking antibiotics
yesterday sine her tonsils were swollen.
I held off on my proposal, or rather,
I hesitated. The mood never set in. We were sick and tired, and it was
exhausting to run around among the ruins to see as much as possible before they
closed. The sun is slowly setting over Chania and our trip is coming to an end.
I’m
dazzled by the glittering surface of the harbor’s water. We sit on the terrace
of Café Port, each having a metaxa. Hundreds of swallows fly aimlessly and
purposefully over the rooftops. To the south, the snow-capped mountain peaks
rise. I can't see a single cloud in the sky. A cool breeze blows in from the Aegean
Sea, and the square below us is filled with locals and tourists. Cretan
youngsters dressed in blue jeans sit outside the bar chatting while pop music is playing.
She writes in her diary while I wonder if I will ever conquer her heart.
April 28, Saturday
Only after we got back to the hotel,
showered, packed and each of us had finished a glass of whiskey, only then did I do it.
"Do you want to take another and
longer trip with me," I said.
"Maybe..." she replied in a
slightly joking tone.
"One that lasts a
lifetime," I added.
"I don't know," she said.
She caught her breath and her eyes
watered. Then she leaned forward and kissed me.
"It is so difficult. I'm so
afraid of making mistakes. I need more time, but I promise you that you won't have
to wait long for an answer."
I gave her time.
Once again, I have taken a gamble. By asking the question, I risk breaking up the best relationship I've ever had with a girl. She has said several times that she distinguishes between being fond of and truly loving. The latter means she wants to get married, and she has never said that. So, I cannot propose to a girl who I know loves me! I can only hope that my proposal will release her love, that through this total revelation of where I stand, she will be able to listen to her inner self. Now she doesn't have to worry about being rejected if she discovers that she also loves the person she has fallen in love with. With my question, I wanted to force us both out of a corner. I don't want to keep pouring my love on her if she doesn't really want me. If I wait too long, the parting will be bitter. I am no longer 22.
Trying to be Normal is the third part of novel with the working title Shifting Passions.
No comments:
Post a Comment